Discover the features and curiosities of the Portuguese archipelago made up of nine remote islands in the Atlantic Ocean
The Portuguese discovered this remote archipelago, spread 1,287 km west of their country’s coastline in the swirling mists of the Atlantic Ocean, at the beginning of the 16th century. The Azores comprise nine islands, each a mythical and magical land of volcanoes, bubbling hot springs, rising steam geysers, turquoise lagoons and dark green lakes. With a landscape that seemed alive, it’s no wonder that the population turned to the Holy Spirit for protection – a loyalty they still have today, as witnessed by the many shrines and chapels that dot the towns and villages. More than anything, devotion to the Holy Spirit is a defining element of being Azorean.
This authenticity makes the Azores, some 640 kilometers away, a pleasure to visit, in addition to its extraordinary and diverse landscapes, different gastronomic strengths and excellent wines. Increasingly sophisticated contemporary hotels will open, old mansions will be converted into hotels and eco-friendly accommodation will be launched for walkers and nature lovers who don’t see frequent rain as an obstacle. But it is thanks to this climate that the islands are so green. It’s thanks to this climate that the Azores have the only tea plantation in Europe, that their small pineapples are intensely sweet and that their cows graze all year round in fields lined with rows of blue hydrangeas, providing us with milk, butter and cheese. All that is worth the trip.
São Miguel
Nicknamed the Green Island, São Miguel is the largest island and home to the regional capital, Ponte Delgada, making it a good starting point. Its cobbled streets are flanked by imposing whitewashed and basalt façades, allowing you to imagine a time when the local port was a crucial departure point between Europe and the New World. Now, Ponta Delgada has a thriving culinary scene, but if you’re looking for traditional dishes, cross the island to Lagoa das Furnas, where they cook cozido, a rich stew of meat and vegetables cooked from a hole in the ground for five hours. On the other side of the lake there are steaming geysers and bubbling fountains, as well as the impressive Terra Nostra Park, started in the 18th century by a prosperous Bostonian. Surrounded by hibiscus and Japanese cedars, the giant water lilies are home to mustard-colored hot pools where locals bathe to soak up the rich minerals.
Nearby is the Lagoa das Sete Cidades, a lake in a volcanic caldera. It is divided into two, connected by a narrow line, with one side bright turquoise and the other dark green.
Santa Maria
Located 54 kilometers south of São Miguel, Santa Maria was the first island to be discovered by the Portuguese in 1427. It has the warmest climate in the archipelago and, although it is only 18 kilometers long, it has wonderful sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters due to its temperate climate. This and its proximity to the Formigas nature reserve and Dollabart Reef make it one of the best diving destinations in Europe.
Terceira
The most developed of the central islands, largely due to the American-run air base – it still has as many cattle as inhabitants. Its soft green interior is reminiscent of Ireland, while its coastline has barren areas of black lava. The main historic city, Angra do Heroísmo, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its port’s strategic role in the Atlantic, a stopover point on the routes between Europe, America and Africa for over 300 years. The island is known for its unusual form of bullfighting, ‘bullada à corda’ or bullfighting with rope, and for Algar do Carvão, a volcanic crater that today houses some of the largest stalactites in the world.
Graciosa
One of the most peaceful islands in the Azores, Graciosa is also called the “White Island” due to its coastline of whitish rocks, above which windmills with red details stand. The place is known for its adorable dwarf donkeys and traditional handmade queijadas, but its main attraction is the Furna do Enxofre, where you can descend into the bowels of a volcanic crater. The island’s geothermal waters are popular for treatments, and the deep waters around the island make it ideal for dolphin or whale watching expeditions.
São Jorge
Nicknamed “The Dragon” because of its long, mountainous shape, many villages on this little-visited island lie in flat areas, once debris fields or lava flows, and are hidden under steep slopes that offer dramatic views. A favorite spot for outdoor enthusiasts, you can try canyoning, hiking, canoeing and caving here. But make time to taste the famous São Jorge cheese, the island’s main production. It is made exclusively from fresh milk and aged to give it an acidic taste. There is some seismic activity going on, so check the situation before you go.
Pico
Home to Pico, Portugal’s highest mountain, many people come here to climb it. Others come to watch whales in the summer (the history of whaling in the Azores can be studied at the Whalers’ Museum in Lajes) or for some serious wine tasting. The island is covered in black basalt vineyards, which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Azores Wine Company, which is adding Pico to the oenological map with its excellent new wines, offers charming accommodation in its elegant, minimalist winery.
Faial
Famous as a yachting destination, this fertile island features an impressive carpet of blue hydrangeas in the summer months. It was the site of the last volcanic eruption in 1957-8, the history of which can be seen in the nearby Capelinhos Museum. Another museum worth visiting is the Scrimshaw Museum, which exhibits centuries-old whale bones and teeth with engraved designs.
Flores
The island of Flores or flowers, named after the Solidago species and the pink and blue hydrangeas, used to be a notorious hideout for pirates waiting to attack Spanish galleons laden with treasure on their way back to Europe. Classified as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, its landscape attracts walkers interested in marveling at its waterfalls, lagoons and dark blue crater lake.
Corvo
The smallest island in the Azores is the edifice of the Monte Gordo marine volcano. It is remarkably undeveloped, with only around 400 inhabitants, whose houses are built from black basalt rock in the island’s only settlement, Vila Nova. Corvo, or Corvo Island, popular with birdwatchers, is a stopping point for many migratory birds.